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 Tofu Haters, Take Heart
There's plenty of soy to go around in other forms
(2/27/2002)
Tofu Haters, Take Heart
There's plenty of soy to go around in other forms


The vegetarian love affair with tofu has done as much harm as good for the reputation of the rather mild-mannered soy bean. Though it certainly has publicized the health benefits and versatility of this legume, the emphasis on tofu has left many people with the impression it is the only, or best, source of soy protein.

Not the case. And that's good news for those whose stomachs turn at the sight of the gelatinous white blocks. The shelves of natural-food stores, and increasingly mainstream grocers, are stacked with great sources of soy -- some cleverly disguised, others good in their own right.

Miso is one such source. Best known as the primary ingredient in Japanese soups, miso is a salty paste made from fermented soy beans and other ingredients. Like cheese, miso is aged. The longer it ages, the darker its color and stronger its taste. First-time miso buyers should stick with white or yellow, which has a sweet, tangy taste. When dark misos are used in soups, they can taste like beef broth to vegetarian tastebuds.

Miso soup is easy to make. Bring water and vegetables to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are tender. Add miso during the final three minutes, as cooking intensifies its flavor. Use 1 teaspoon miso per 1 cup of liquid.

But soup is just the beginning. Miso can make a great marinade for vegetables, seafood and even meats. It also is popular whipped into scrambled eggs, omelets and mashed potatoes, and spread like butter on corn-on-the-cob. Shish kebabs are a great way to introduce people to the taste of miso. Those who eat seafood can substitute giant scallops for the tofu. Vegetarians trying to cut fat could use baked, seasoned tofu instead of deep-fried.

Tempeh is another fermented soy bean product, though it bears no resemblance to miso. It is made from crushed soy beans, comes in 1/2-inch thick slabs and has a meaty texture. Several companies use tempeh to make baconlike products. Because tempeh is firmer than tofu, it can be easier to stir-fry. Though edible right from the package, tempeh is best when marinated and cooked. Raw tempeh can have a bitter taste.

For a great "meat" sauce for pasta or lasagna, crumble tempeh in a skillet with a bit of olive oil and soy sauce. Saute until the tempeh bits brown, about five minutes. Add this to any prepared pasta sauce.

Here are some other great ways to enjoy soy, minus the tofu:

Soy milks have come a long way in recent years, and many varieties now are available in the refrigerated sections alongside dairy milk. For drinking or on cereals, use vanilla-flavored for the creamiest taste. Soy milk also is good for baking.

Soy protein powders are great for people who drink fruit smoothies. One scoop will give the drink a creamy, thick consistency without altering its taste.

Many breads now are being baked using soy flours. Don't just think sandwich. Brush the slices with olive oil, then toast in a 350-degree oven until dry and crisp. Cut into chunks for croutons, or pulverize in a food processor for bread crumbs.

Edamame, often served in Asian restaurants, is fresh soy beans still in the pods. Most grocers sell them frozen. Steam the beans for 5 minutes. To serve, toss them in a bowl with a generous sprinkling of salt. To eat, hold a pod by one end, and place the other end in your mouth. Suck the beans out of the pod, licking the salt off the outside in the process.



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